About Church Street: Church Street History

Church Street takes its name from St. James Church, which was the Parish Church for Paddington between 1678 and 1787. The present St Mary’s Church at the western end of Church Street was built 1788-1791. The part of Church Street that lies east of Edgware Road dates from the early nineteenth century. There is a general consensus that the market on Church Street dates back to December 1830 and originated with the creation of a hay market. It is said to have grown as a descendant of Portman market, which was located to the north of Church Street, between Salisbury and Penfold Street. Over the following two years the market grew to accommodate both a vegetable and general market. Although the market remained throughout the 1800s, its real success was during the early 1830s when it received much accolade for its quality and goods - the market was said to be "replete with every convenience". At this time its popularity was such that in 1833 it was considered to be a"formidable rival" to Covent Garden. However, this prosperity was short lived and attempts to recapture the former spirit and success of the market also failed. In 1900 the market was taken over by H.T. Grunton, whose bold (unrealised) plans to rebuild and modernise the market were not successful. "The impressive Marylebone Station and Hotel" which opened in 1900 were also unsuccessful in aiding the revival of the former glory of the market and in 1906 the market site was sold. It later become a vehicle maintenance depot but was bombed in the Second World War and then redeveloped as part of the Church Street estate.

Theatres and entertainment

Although Church Street is largely known for its market heritage, it also has an important and interesting history, due to being located in the area of Lisson Green, which appears to have become a centre for theatre and entertainment from the 1830s onwards. In October 1831, the Royal Sussex Subscription Theatre opened, just south of Church Street, this was followed a year later by the opening of the Royal Pavilion West, which was situated behind Church Street on the site of the existing library. The Royal Sussex did not remain as a theatre for very long, however the Pavilion, despite frequent changes in ownership and renaming, enjoyed success as a place of entertainment for well over a century. The Pavilion was an unlicensed theatre and is said to have been a theatre for crude melodrama and songs. It was renamed the Portman Theatre in 1835 and renamed again in 1836 as the Royal West London Theatre. Around this time, it was recognised and acted upon by Loveridge (its owner from 1937) that the Theatre would benefit from an additional entrance from Church Street as up until then the theatre could only be accessed through a little entrance via Little Church Street. In 1842 it became the New Theatre Royal, in 1858 Theatre Royal, Marylebone, followed by the Royal Alfred Theatre and then back to Theatre Royal, Marylebone because of decline under its former name. The New Biograph Trading Company took over in 1913 and it became the West London Cinema in 1932, showing films, wrestling and boxing - attempts to convert it back to its former use as a drama theatre failed and in 1941 it was bombed, later being used as a warehouse. The area surrounding Church Street, Lisson Grove, also provided a variety of entertainment at a cheaper price than that which was available in West London. Examples include: the Dauntless Music Hall (1880-1893), a licensed theatre which later became a biograph cinema; a skating rink and then the Dauntless café. More recently, in the 1990s, the café has become a job centre. In addition to this there were numerous Public Houses and penny gaffs and pantomimes were also very popular. The Cockpit Theatre is a more recent entertainment venue, which opened on Gateforth Street in 1970 and now houses the Soho Theatre Company. Another notable feature at this time was the Church Street Public library which, designed as part of post war development of Church Street was, from its opening in August 1967, a lively and popular place.

Transport infrastructure

Three major railway infrastructure projects had a significant impact on the Church Street area. First was the Metropolitan Railway, the first underground railway, from Paddington to Farringdon, which opened in 1863 and ran beneath the Marylebone and Euston Roads. Second was the construction in the 1890s of the Great Central Railway terminus at Marylebone Station goods yard and coal depot, which covered 51 acres and necessitated widespread eviction and re-housing. Third was the construction of a deep-level tube line (now the Bakerloo Line), which opened in 1906, providing links between Paddington, Edgware Road, Marylebone and Baker Street.

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